I made the Quilted Beads(page 63) with leftover clay and it was easier than I thought. I made the face cane (page 55). Ha Ha! That one is harder than I thought. The instructions in the book were minimal. She said to start with the eyes. That's it! I winged it and it shows.
I tried some spliced canes (page 52). They turned out nice but again the instructions are minimal. The photo was good to follow but only if you know how to get there. The chevron loaf (page 50) I did not get. I probably did not cut enough of a diagonal when I sliced. the instructions were OK. Shaded canes (page 51) turned out well even with a rocky start on the color. Plaid canes (page 51) was OK. The instructions were fine but I must remember that a cane must be the same from beginning to end or the pattern changes throughout. So the Doll's head (page 140) is the only I didn't do. The book has to go back. I'm so lucky to have such a great librarian.
It is now May 2011 and I have reordered the book to try again to do the projects. Stay tuned for part 4 of this review.
A place for me and you to talk about our passion for polymer clay and all things created.
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Book Review - The Art of Polymer Clay, Designs and Techniques for Creating Jewelry, Pottery, and Decorative Artwork, Part 2
While I was in between curing, I tried her Red Jasper (page 94). Well, you just never know what this stuff will end up looking like just from the beginning. I followed her recipe and it didn't look like much. the black was only on the bottom and I could not see it. I did it anyway and once finished it was gorgeous. Nice jasper color and lines. Still curious for a better method. I sliced a few pieces, turned them over and put them in the pasta. It didn't turn out nearly as nice as hers. Kato knows her stuff.
I bought some granite clay yesterday and tried the simple jade (page 91) next to make another one of my turtles. I ended up using another mix of jade than hers, I didn't like hers. too much black, the green too dark. I grated a lighter green, granite and translucent and made a jade I preferred. Worked fine although she says to mix and I grated instead before mixing. Then I made a molded face pin (page 85). Using a face mold of a sleeping lady, I sprayed the mold with water and it popped right out. She shows a Chinese king pin, I made this lady using some striped cane from another time. I made her neck with it, then cut 2 hearts and put one for the chest and another a little further down. I pressed an iridescent crystal in the middle and baked it. I'll apply paint to make up the face and a back pin.
I made the cameo (page 83) using the molds I had made another time using her method of color. She calls for pink translucent and man it does not take much to color that stuff. I applied a thin sheet of ivory over that. the ivory is supposed to stay on top of the mold and give way to the pink. I guess I can never get it thin enough because it did not really work. It still looked fine but not like she described. I will however use it for my turtles. I use the cameos to finish the back of my turtles.
I used the petals of the lily to practice carving (page 70) designs. I practised a bit but the only tool that really worked was an elongated spoon. I need practise for sure.
The last things I wanted to try in the book I used Fimo.
First, I conditioned 25 years old Fimo. I found some old clay in a tin I'd been carrying around since my adolescence and tried to use it. It worked fine with a tls in the mix for conditioning. Not having any yellow for a leaf cane(page 51), I tried adding blue to gold. I've come up with brass. The gold is stronger than that old blue. It has also tinted my gloves. Now that I step back I can see the green come out. I did not have enough of the old blue to do all 4 sheets, so I used some brilliant blue. It has some other base because this one had the most blue to gold ratio and it really come out like a dark brass, like old Italian gold almost. Now, what to do? I had to change it because all the sheet are too similar and they will never show. I added green to the last 3 sheets and it brought it closer to the leaf color. You can see a slight variation from one color or layer to the next. Looks nice. Now onto to the face cane. Ugh!
I bought some granite clay yesterday and tried the simple jade (page 91) next to make another one of my turtles. I ended up using another mix of jade than hers, I didn't like hers. too much black, the green too dark. I grated a lighter green, granite and translucent and made a jade I preferred. Worked fine although she says to mix and I grated instead before mixing. Then I made a molded face pin (page 85). Using a face mold of a sleeping lady, I sprayed the mold with water and it popped right out. She shows a Chinese king pin, I made this lady using some striped cane from another time. I made her neck with it, then cut 2 hearts and put one for the chest and another a little further down. I pressed an iridescent crystal in the middle and baked it. I'll apply paint to make up the face and a back pin.
I made the cameo (page 83) using the molds I had made another time using her method of color. She calls for pink translucent and man it does not take much to color that stuff. I applied a thin sheet of ivory over that. the ivory is supposed to stay on top of the mold and give way to the pink. I guess I can never get it thin enough because it did not really work. It still looked fine but not like she described. I will however use it for my turtles. I use the cameos to finish the back of my turtles.
I used the petals of the lily to practice carving (page 70) designs. I practised a bit but the only tool that really worked was an elongated spoon. I need practise for sure.
The last things I wanted to try in the book I used Fimo.
First, I conditioned 25 years old Fimo. I found some old clay in a tin I'd been carrying around since my adolescence and tried to use it. It worked fine with a tls in the mix for conditioning. Not having any yellow for a leaf cane(page 51), I tried adding blue to gold. I've come up with brass. The gold is stronger than that old blue. It has also tinted my gloves. Now that I step back I can see the green come out. I did not have enough of the old blue to do all 4 sheets, so I used some brilliant blue. It has some other base because this one had the most blue to gold ratio and it really come out like a dark brass, like old Italian gold almost. Now, what to do? I had to change it because all the sheet are too similar and they will never show. I added green to the last 3 sheets and it brought it closer to the leaf color. You can see a slight variation from one color or layer to the next. Looks nice. Now onto to the face cane. Ugh!
Book Review- The Art of Polymer Clay, Design and Techniques for Creating Jewelry, Pottery, and Decorative Artwork by Donna Kato Part 1
I worked on this book, the first time, in February of 2010. The following is from my journal at the time.
This is not my first try at a Kato book. the other books are more explicit, better step by step photos. this one implies steps and rules of clay that leave room for frustration. the first project is the Clicky Rose Cane (page 54). My first mistake is too much color in my translucent. It really takes very little. The center part is fine although it ended up being too big once reduced. The technique for the petals was neat. Although my pink was too dark it still looked OK. when I look at the example photo, mine turned out like it. I think that her yellow center doesn't stand out so much because her pink is a lighter shade. This technique could be applied to many things. the idea is to sandwich the white between layers of colored translucent and then layering them unevenly. the instructions don't say to layer unevenly, although the photo shows this. The example jewelry shows the flower cane on beads with pearls, very pretty.
The next project was the Milky Opal (page 96) using confetti glitter, silver and blue with translucent. Turned out OK although the blue isn't really an opal color. The idea is that the glitter floats inside the translucent clay. Again, the instructions are minimal. She calls for sheeting than baking. Once baked you cut the shape you want and make a bezel. It needs many layers of sanding to get that opal effect. That should be done before making the bezel.
The Nonpareil Marbled Paper (page101) was easy to make and would be a good thing for making clothes on a doll or shingles.
I made a small bowl using the Balloon Method (page 112). That was harder to pull off. The instructions said to pull gently to make the walls straight, and then to twist the top. The walls collapsed. I kept pulling up on the clay and pushing back together on the horizontal to make the balloon shape. It finally worked but she skipped a step to get from straight walls to twisting the top. I mixed gold alcohol inks (3 drops) and in 1/2 teaspoon of TLS and painted the sides of the bowl. Then wiped it off. It antiqued it quite well. I formed a cover with the remaining clay and added a rope handle. To make the handle stick better I stamped the spot where the handle would go. Adhering the handle was easier that way. I then draped the cover on a cotton ball to make it concave. It worked. It does not fit on the bowl completely but the principle is there. I like the end results and I've used techniques I'd never used before.
Next, I tried the Torn-sheet Turquoise (page 92). Lesson # 1, yellow goes a long way to shade a green. Unless you want a really lime green, never use 1 for 1 measurement when mixing color. Following her mixing directions I had to add another part green and 1/2 part black to come close to the color she shows in the book. This could be because I use Sculpey and Primo and she uses Kato. She wants the black in the back of the sheet. When torn you could not see it enough. I would put tiny shavings of black on a green sheet then the aqua and translucent torn pieces. I made a donut with the clay and covered it. the green still was too 70's for me so I antiqued it with a little gold ink. I had left some crevices when I was smoothing it and put the ink in those. Not bad. Lessons # 2 - When smoothing a piece, spritzing it with water helps. It stops the clay from dragging with the rod. Probably because it cools the clay.
Before I describe what I have done today I want to talk about a couple of discoveries. Getting clay into a manageable paper thin sheet was near impossible for me. The clay would roll up on my roller way before it got thin enough. So I sandwiched it between wet (with a spritzer) parchment paper before putting it through the thinnest on the pasta. Works great! I can add a second layer of paper inside to make it even thinner. I'll try regular paper next, just because it is cheaper than parchment. At that thinness the clay color leaks on the paper and can't be used for another color clay. Kato uses very thin clay to cover and make the simulated finishes. With my way, I can get the results she's talking about. So I did the Patina finish (page 102). Again her color mixing didn't work out but I ended up with a mint/turquoise. Putting it on a sheet of gold is fine but when sandwiched to paper thin it still made one color on top of the other. I thought that is I tear the mint and apply it to the gold in pieces, a little all over, re-pasta that, I wouldn't have so much smoothing to do. I kept the sheet in plastic to try later.
The next thing was the Rose (page 122) using a layered white and translucent. This was easier than it looked. I've already made roses from paper. It's the same principle. The white and translucent stripes gives a nice rose (white rose) look. Adding the leaves (page 125) was trickier. Cutting them is fine but texturing them without tearing them at the ends is not easy. I also made a pink lily (page 125). It said to make the petals thin or thick enough for the brand of clay. Using Sculpey, I probably made them too thick, because they broke at the seams alot. I managed to get it right but I had to repair tears way too much to have called this project mastered. I didn't color the insides but I can do that another time.
The Iris (page 126) was fun although tricky because of it's shape. It's baking right now, we'll see if the petals stay where I put them. The instructions were better, the photos most helpful of all. The petals broke off while baking.
I decided to kill techniques with one project, I made the Box (page 116) using the Marble (page 94). Her technique for marble is easy and gives good results. I block of white Sculpey with a sliver of (1/16) of black and copper (I added gold to the copper for better color) (1 part copper to 3/4 part gold) to make a round box, 2" high and 2" across with lid. Now, her instructions were precise and more step-by-step than some other projects in this book. The walls turned out fine but the bottom and top are amateurish. It was hard to add the wire staples because my wall was not big or as thick as hers. I still managed but it left marks on the clay. I think that if I would bake in between all steps I might bet a better result, at least while I am still learning. the cover was a little harder because it was flimsier and her handle was a little complicated but I managed all right. I will try to sand away the marks and buff and varnish. Marble should shine.
This is not my first try at a Kato book. the other books are more explicit, better step by step photos. this one implies steps and rules of clay that leave room for frustration. the first project is the Clicky Rose Cane (page 54). My first mistake is too much color in my translucent. It really takes very little. The center part is fine although it ended up being too big once reduced. The technique for the petals was neat. Although my pink was too dark it still looked OK. when I look at the example photo, mine turned out like it. I think that her yellow center doesn't stand out so much because her pink is a lighter shade. This technique could be applied to many things. the idea is to sandwich the white between layers of colored translucent and then layering them unevenly. the instructions don't say to layer unevenly, although the photo shows this. The example jewelry shows the flower cane on beads with pearls, very pretty.
The next project was the Milky Opal (page 96) using confetti glitter, silver and blue with translucent. Turned out OK although the blue isn't really an opal color. The idea is that the glitter floats inside the translucent clay. Again, the instructions are minimal. She calls for sheeting than baking. Once baked you cut the shape you want and make a bezel. It needs many layers of sanding to get that opal effect. That should be done before making the bezel.
The Nonpareil Marbled Paper (page101) was easy to make and would be a good thing for making clothes on a doll or shingles.
I made a small bowl using the Balloon Method (page 112). That was harder to pull off. The instructions said to pull gently to make the walls straight, and then to twist the top. The walls collapsed. I kept pulling up on the clay and pushing back together on the horizontal to make the balloon shape. It finally worked but she skipped a step to get from straight walls to twisting the top. I mixed gold alcohol inks (3 drops) and in 1/2 teaspoon of TLS and painted the sides of the bowl. Then wiped it off. It antiqued it quite well. I formed a cover with the remaining clay and added a rope handle. To make the handle stick better I stamped the spot where the handle would go. Adhering the handle was easier that way. I then draped the cover on a cotton ball to make it concave. It worked. It does not fit on the bowl completely but the principle is there. I like the end results and I've used techniques I'd never used before.
Next, I tried the Torn-sheet Turquoise (page 92). Lesson # 1, yellow goes a long way to shade a green. Unless you want a really lime green, never use 1 for 1 measurement when mixing color. Following her mixing directions I had to add another part green and 1/2 part black to come close to the color she shows in the book. This could be because I use Sculpey and Primo and she uses Kato. She wants the black in the back of the sheet. When torn you could not see it enough. I would put tiny shavings of black on a green sheet then the aqua and translucent torn pieces. I made a donut with the clay and covered it. the green still was too 70's for me so I antiqued it with a little gold ink. I had left some crevices when I was smoothing it and put the ink in those. Not bad. Lessons # 2 - When smoothing a piece, spritzing it with water helps. It stops the clay from dragging with the rod. Probably because it cools the clay.
Before I describe what I have done today I want to talk about a couple of discoveries. Getting clay into a manageable paper thin sheet was near impossible for me. The clay would roll up on my roller way before it got thin enough. So I sandwiched it between wet (with a spritzer) parchment paper before putting it through the thinnest on the pasta. Works great! I can add a second layer of paper inside to make it even thinner. I'll try regular paper next, just because it is cheaper than parchment. At that thinness the clay color leaks on the paper and can't be used for another color clay. Kato uses very thin clay to cover and make the simulated finishes. With my way, I can get the results she's talking about. So I did the Patina finish (page 102). Again her color mixing didn't work out but I ended up with a mint/turquoise. Putting it on a sheet of gold is fine but when sandwiched to paper thin it still made one color on top of the other. I thought that is I tear the mint and apply it to the gold in pieces, a little all over, re-pasta that, I wouldn't have so much smoothing to do. I kept the sheet in plastic to try later.
The next thing was the Rose (page 122) using a layered white and translucent. This was easier than it looked. I've already made roses from paper. It's the same principle. The white and translucent stripes gives a nice rose (white rose) look. Adding the leaves (page 125) was trickier. Cutting them is fine but texturing them without tearing them at the ends is not easy. I also made a pink lily (page 125). It said to make the petals thin or thick enough for the brand of clay. Using Sculpey, I probably made them too thick, because they broke at the seams alot. I managed to get it right but I had to repair tears way too much to have called this project mastered. I didn't color the insides but I can do that another time.
The Iris (page 126) was fun although tricky because of it's shape. It's baking right now, we'll see if the petals stay where I put them. The instructions were better, the photos most helpful of all. The petals broke off while baking.
I decided to kill techniques with one project, I made the Box (page 116) using the Marble (page 94). Her technique for marble is easy and gives good results. I block of white Sculpey with a sliver of (1/16) of black and copper (I added gold to the copper for better color) (1 part copper to 3/4 part gold) to make a round box, 2" high and 2" across with lid. Now, her instructions were precise and more step-by-step than some other projects in this book. The walls turned out fine but the bottom and top are amateurish. It was hard to add the wire staples because my wall was not big or as thick as hers. I still managed but it left marks on the clay. I think that if I would bake in between all steps I might bet a better result, at least while I am still learning. the cover was a little harder because it was flimsier and her handle was a little complicated but I managed all right. I will try to sand away the marks and buff and varnish. Marble should shine.
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
1st Book Review - Creative Clay Jewelry by Leslie Dierks
The posts entitled Book Reviews will be about the books I used to learn how to work with polymer clay. They are based on my journals, as I kept them during the work. In the winter of 2010, I got hooked on polymer clay. I loved the range of what I could do with it, the fact that I wasn't limited in any way for the beads I could have. Buying glass and metal beads from the stores was going to be more expensive than I was ready to live with. I wanted to make affordable jewelry and polymer clay seemed a good way to cut costs, by making the beads myself. So I got my hands on many books and went through the exercises and projects and learned my craft. I'm still learning but I got a good basis to start from.
I did the exercises in this book in late February of 2010.
On first appearance, the book seems outdated but I got lots of work from it. The first exercise I tried was the Simple Flower Cane (page 28) Cane work is not a force for me so far but I liked her illustrations and explanations. It's very simple and to the point. For the flower she asks you to wrap the petal only 3/4 around to give it more depth. It seems simpler than the others I've tried with the same results. The Star (PAGE 28) was also easy. She offers 2 ways and I tried the second, it has less steps. I like that easy thing. So both canes are waiting for me to do something with them.
Then I sculpted a small face (page 31). That was also fun. I managed to do it without distorting the head shape too much. He's cute in a scary kind of way. Getting the right expression will take some work. Next, I did her Bulls'eye Galore (page 42). The cane was easy, her instructions simple. I let it sit overnight and this morning I covered some scrap clay with the slices.
The challenge was Double Link Quilt Pattern (page 50). Again her illustrations and directions were bang on. I made square scraps of clay and that took some thinking. Now that I think about it I should have made a log and squared it up but you never know how much clay you'll need. Anyway, you're supposed to ball the squares up after you've made them. I did that and it went fine. There are lots of cracks and lines showing when squaring so making them round gets rid of that But one bead stayed square with rounded edges. I liked it better so I did them all like that.
The triumph of my day, my week was making Leaping Lizards (page 52) . It took 2 1/2 hours and over 5 blocks of clay but I like my results. Again, this woman has great illustrations. I am so proud to have pulled it off. I didn't reduce it because it was the end of the day. I was already 45 minutes over my time limit so it rested until morning. My proportions are right and the ivory sets off the turquoise really well. Bravo to me!
After having brought myself up to date, glued my samples in the journal I kept going. I replaced the parchment paper I'd been working on for a piece of thick glass (old glass doors from a cabinet). I'm hoping it keeps the clay cooler for the canes ( I use Sculpey).
This next project was frustrating. Wish upon a Star ( page61), a star cane, looked fairly straightforward but it flopped. She calls for a 4 peak star and it collapsed inside. I might have done better with a 5 peak star but well now it's over. I will cut it and make a kaleidoscope or something. Then I made the parquet pattern in her Heart's Desire ( page 75). The cane is fine but she wants to shape hearts out of tripled cane pattern. The cane parquet pattern cut in 3 and put back together. I didn't think that would have produced consistent hearts so I'll consider my options first. I was thinking of cutting out hearts with plastic cover over the clay so as to round them and then sticking a face in the back of them. The biggest job was the Stained Glass Effect (page 76). I made the cane but it was huge and I had reduced it from her original recipe. Being square, the reduction is tricky. Then leaving it too big makes cutting difficult. I didn't manage to get one whole slice. she calls for wrapping colored clay with the cane slices so as to see the color through the cane. I used white, it was the best end product. Well, it's hard to tell, the dark turquoise and pottery looks all right. I covered a baked bead, to see the difference with the thinner cane. It is better. The raw clay gives too much to get a really thin sheet of the translucent. You can spread the thin slice of translucent cane on a baked surface. You can press harder on it without distortion. Still all right and I made a few donut beads, first time. The Special Occasion Barrettes (page 94)was easy as pie although I'll probably have to glue the clay to the metal barrette once it cools.
The next project Corporate Counter Culture (page 109)is a tie. It was fairly straightforward but the assembly gave me a hard time. the clay kept cracking when I tried to bend it over the tie part. I think the tie should have been thicker too because now that it's baked I could easily snap it in half. the top part would have worked better a little thinner. It might not have cracked. Community Gathering (page 116) was also fun although her instructions although her instructions for canes seemed clearer than the other stuff. Like for the base of this piece, she calls for a piece of clay 1 3/4" in diameter but does not mention the thickness. I sheeted it at the thickest on the pasta and when I went to curl it, it cracked all over. Story for today, think about the intended use to determine the thickness. Anyway, my piece is huge, it'll be a pin. I made it all pink because I wanted to use up the clay and I figured the bronze color added later will look nice with the pink. I skipped all the image transfer stuff because I tried it and nothing happened. I'll retry it with another author. The Rising Sun (page 130) was fun but again I changed some things like I used butterflies as background and I added some rope bezel around the face. the Tender Heart (page 138) I couldn't do exactly either, couldn't find the lace for the heart but making the ruffle was a lesson.
Now, the hardest and most disappointing projects are the Cascade of Gold ( page 128) and the Classic Weave (page 106). The first one I gave up really fast. You're supposed to lift the strips of clay, insert the chain and weave the clay. Well, the strips kept breaking. She calls for silver foil on the clay than says to thin it out and the leaf should crackle, it didn't. Anyway, I used up the leafed clay for the heart pin. Now the classic weave worked a little better but I still couldn't make very much of it. The spaces between the strips made holes in the clay. Her picture didn't look like that. I would have broken the strips had I pushed them closer. I used the roller to flatten them thinking I fill in my holes, it worked but the top strips cut through the bottom ones. I had no holes but it didn't look like a basket weave at all and I had used my malachite striped cane. A disappointment.
All in all, it was a great book. I learned a lot about making canes and how to sculpt faces and using them in pieces. Recommended for sure, even if it is old.
I did the exercises in this book in late February of 2010.
On first appearance, the book seems outdated but I got lots of work from it. The first exercise I tried was the Simple Flower Cane (page 28) Cane work is not a force for me so far but I liked her illustrations and explanations. It's very simple and to the point. For the flower she asks you to wrap the petal only 3/4 around to give it more depth. It seems simpler than the others I've tried with the same results. The Star (PAGE 28) was also easy. She offers 2 ways and I tried the second, it has less steps. I like that easy thing. So both canes are waiting for me to do something with them.
Then I sculpted a small face (page 31). That was also fun. I managed to do it without distorting the head shape too much. He's cute in a scary kind of way. Getting the right expression will take some work. Next, I did her Bulls'eye Galore (page 42). The cane was easy, her instructions simple. I let it sit overnight and this morning I covered some scrap clay with the slices.
The challenge was Double Link Quilt Pattern (page 50). Again her illustrations and directions were bang on. I made square scraps of clay and that took some thinking. Now that I think about it I should have made a log and squared it up but you never know how much clay you'll need. Anyway, you're supposed to ball the squares up after you've made them. I did that and it went fine. There are lots of cracks and lines showing when squaring so making them round gets rid of that But one bead stayed square with rounded edges. I liked it better so I did them all like that.
The triumph of my day, my week was making Leaping Lizards (page 52) . It took 2 1/2 hours and over 5 blocks of clay but I like my results. Again, this woman has great illustrations. I am so proud to have pulled it off. I didn't reduce it because it was the end of the day. I was already 45 minutes over my time limit so it rested until morning. My proportions are right and the ivory sets off the turquoise really well. Bravo to me!
After having brought myself up to date, glued my samples in the journal I kept going. I replaced the parchment paper I'd been working on for a piece of thick glass (old glass doors from a cabinet). I'm hoping it keeps the clay cooler for the canes ( I use Sculpey).
This next project was frustrating. Wish upon a Star ( page61), a star cane, looked fairly straightforward but it flopped. She calls for a 4 peak star and it collapsed inside. I might have done better with a 5 peak star but well now it's over. I will cut it and make a kaleidoscope or something. Then I made the parquet pattern in her Heart's Desire ( page 75). The cane is fine but she wants to shape hearts out of tripled cane pattern. The cane parquet pattern cut in 3 and put back together. I didn't think that would have produced consistent hearts so I'll consider my options first. I was thinking of cutting out hearts with plastic cover over the clay so as to round them and then sticking a face in the back of them. The biggest job was the Stained Glass Effect (page 76). I made the cane but it was huge and I had reduced it from her original recipe. Being square, the reduction is tricky. Then leaving it too big makes cutting difficult. I didn't manage to get one whole slice. she calls for wrapping colored clay with the cane slices so as to see the color through the cane. I used white, it was the best end product. Well, it's hard to tell, the dark turquoise and pottery looks all right. I covered a baked bead, to see the difference with the thinner cane. It is better. The raw clay gives too much to get a really thin sheet of the translucent. You can spread the thin slice of translucent cane on a baked surface. You can press harder on it without distortion. Still all right and I made a few donut beads, first time. The Special Occasion Barrettes (page 94)was easy as pie although I'll probably have to glue the clay to the metal barrette once it cools.
The next project Corporate Counter Culture (page 109)is a tie. It was fairly straightforward but the assembly gave me a hard time. the clay kept cracking when I tried to bend it over the tie part. I think the tie should have been thicker too because now that it's baked I could easily snap it in half. the top part would have worked better a little thinner. It might not have cracked. Community Gathering (page 116) was also fun although her instructions although her instructions for canes seemed clearer than the other stuff. Like for the base of this piece, she calls for a piece of clay 1 3/4" in diameter but does not mention the thickness. I sheeted it at the thickest on the pasta and when I went to curl it, it cracked all over. Story for today, think about the intended use to determine the thickness. Anyway, my piece is huge, it'll be a pin. I made it all pink because I wanted to use up the clay and I figured the bronze color added later will look nice with the pink. I skipped all the image transfer stuff because I tried it and nothing happened. I'll retry it with another author. The Rising Sun (page 130) was fun but again I changed some things like I used butterflies as background and I added some rope bezel around the face. the Tender Heart (page 138) I couldn't do exactly either, couldn't find the lace for the heart but making the ruffle was a lesson.
Now, the hardest and most disappointing projects are the Cascade of Gold ( page 128) and the Classic Weave (page 106). The first one I gave up really fast. You're supposed to lift the strips of clay, insert the chain and weave the clay. Well, the strips kept breaking. She calls for silver foil on the clay than says to thin it out and the leaf should crackle, it didn't. Anyway, I used up the leafed clay for the heart pin. Now the classic weave worked a little better but I still couldn't make very much of it. The spaces between the strips made holes in the clay. Her picture didn't look like that. I would have broken the strips had I pushed them closer. I used the roller to flatten them thinking I fill in my holes, it worked but the top strips cut through the bottom ones. I had no holes but it didn't look like a basket weave at all and I had used my malachite striped cane. A disappointment.
All in all, it was a great book. I learned a lot about making canes and how to sculpt faces and using them in pieces. Recommended for sure, even if it is old.
Monday, May 9, 2011
I think I might get this going
I have been thinking about my blog and what I would like it to be. I think I want to talk about my art, whether that is about polymer clay, writing, just getting through my day or being the best person I can be, I want it to reflect me and what I live and struggle with.
Lately, the struggle has been of the technological sort. Getting into the online social networking is a whole new ball game. I've never had difficulty making friends and have always needed many of them around me, but this is different. I'm not with anyone, the only feedback I get is from rereading my own words. I feel like I'm in the dark or that the lights are out. If I can find the switch, I'll be able to see who's out there. Next thing I will do is dig out my old journals from last winter when I was going through all those books and the hundreds of exercises and projects. I will do my book reviews on the posts like this.
Lately, the struggle has been of the technological sort. Getting into the online social networking is a whole new ball game. I've never had difficulty making friends and have always needed many of them around me, but this is different. I'm not with anyone, the only feedback I get is from rereading my own words. I feel like I'm in the dark or that the lights are out. If I can find the switch, I'll be able to see who's out there. Next thing I will do is dig out my old journals from last winter when I was going through all those books and the hundreds of exercises and projects. I will do my book reviews on the posts like this.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Well here goes anyway.
So, what's up? Well I finished my tree dragon yesterday. I still have to name him but he's beautiful. I'd add a photo but I'm not sure how. Actually, the blogging experience so far has been frustrating at best. I want to post in my section of Book Reviews and I don't know how. I've asked to help from blogger and don't get anywhere. I need to spend the time to figure this out but I have so little of that. I'm a little discouraged today about this social networking thing. People make it sound like its easy and great. Well, it's easy if you already know what to do and eventually, I'll probably tell others that its easy but right now I don't feel that way. So enough whinning.
My work is coming along great although I was looking at my dragon series and I am puzzled. I am making 4 dragons, each to represent the 4 elements in the feng shui teachings, Fire, water, wood and metal. I am imagining the 4th as we speak. What has puzzled me though is that the 3 I have sculpted don't look like they come from the same person. the heads are very different, the finishes. I know I am supposed to develop a style, a signature so people recognize my work but this hasn't come yet. Oh, well, it will eventually right. Now if I could only figure out this networking stuff so others could be reading my posts and get some objective input, then that would be great.
My work is coming along great although I was looking at my dragon series and I am puzzled. I am making 4 dragons, each to represent the 4 elements in the feng shui teachings, Fire, water, wood and metal. I am imagining the 4th as we speak. What has puzzled me though is that the 3 I have sculpted don't look like they come from the same person. the heads are very different, the finishes. I know I am supposed to develop a style, a signature so people recognize my work but this hasn't come yet. Oh, well, it will eventually right. Now if I could only figure out this networking stuff so others could be reading my posts and get some objective input, then that would be great.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
finally found my blog, again
I'm just testing this out. See if I can keep getting into it, then I'll use it for good.
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